This is a guide to fitting a replacement fuel tank pump in to the Rover 75 Diesel fuel tank. Things you will need are: in tank fuel pump unit, new tank unit seal – there is a big chance that the old one will be leaking, 8mm fuel pipe – if you can’t remove original safely, 2 X pipe clips for the above, a pair of fuel resistant gloves is a must. In addition several small flat bladed screw drivers and/or three kitchens knifes with round ends. The large measure of patience will be useful. The fuel pump is exactly the same part as originally fitted into sender but not VDO manufactured, however still made in
Best thing before you start is to have no more then 1/4 tank... that's where normally fuel pump stops working anyway Remove the tank unit from your Rover. If you haven’t already, now’s the time to make your car look like a scene from ‘Pulp Fiction’ with the plastic sheeting. I did use a wooden stick and a hammer to unscrew big metal cap on top of the tank. First remove back seat – lift up front gently, then use some light and pliers (?) to release back end fittings. You do not have to remove the entire thing of the tank unit just the pump housing. It is connected by some wiring which unplugs at the bottom of the tank and the fuel line that cames from the top of the pump.
I removed pump unit and sender unit together – it’s just lifts up, more difficult to fit back in. Sometimes the original pipe between units shrink on to the spigot, attempting to remove to could mean it gets broken and sends bits of shattered plastic off to the fuel filter. The best for me was to remove whole unit first, then play with the pipe once the old pump unit is out of the cover. Then you can even break the spigot to help with getting pipe off. The old unit is useless anyway, but this on the sender unit is priceless. However try to remove original pipe without cutting it off. It does help if you warm it up, try hot water!!! If it does do, cut gently pipe on the spigot, and replace with normal fuel pipe similar length.
Once it's out: The pump itself is held inside a plastic case that is supported by 3 rubber mounts. Carefully prise the rubber mounts out then you will be able to take out the pump housing. Remove the filter from the bottom. Pump unit contains replacement one in case you will damage the original. It doesn’t look the same, but fits ok. However it’s better to fit back original one. Note the position of the pump inlets and outlet in relation to the pump housing. Now comes the tricky part, you will need some patience here, and those small screwdrivers – or 3 dinner knifes with round ends. You need to release the 3 sets of catches that hold the two halves of the pump housing together. Go easy as if you break the catches you’re sunk. When you have the two halves apart the pump slides out.
Fit the new pump and align the inlets and out lets in the housing. Make sure it all snaps back together OK, and then fit the filter. Sort the wiring before you refit the pump housing. Refit the pump housing and push the rubber mounts back in. That’s finished now.
All that remains are to connect the new piece of fuel hose to the remote pick-up then refit it to the tank. The loose end goes to the out let on the new pump. Reassemble the tank and check that it is not leaking, new seals are recommended.
Please take extra care when removing and refitting sender unit – long bit!!! This white square plastic front bit is easy to break if you push to hard. The same with removing pipe between two units – if it doesn’t came off the pump unit then cut it gently from both and fit standard 5/16’’ fuel pipe. But try to remove it first from pump.
I'm hoping that this item proves more reliable then the standard Rover pump. Needles to say this is experimental and I can’t be held responsible for any losses, injuries, damage to your car or property that you may suffer should you be foolish enough to follow these instructions. If you have any doubts please refer to a trained car mechanic.
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Having done your own servicing, you may need to reset the service indicator back to 15000. All you need to do is to find diagnostic connector and have a piece of wire in hand. Connector is located below steering wheel, on the right hand site. Basically you link pins 4 and 8 of the diagnostic connector with a paper clip or piece of wire, turn on the ignition (position ‘II’) and wait several seconds. It takes between 8-25 seconds for oil change and another 8-25 seconds for resetting service intervals. But no problems have been reported doing it, I did this myself, however I’m not taking any responsibility for connecting it wrongly.